SLOW MOMENTS IN SANTA CRUZ: Portugal Beyond the Crowds

Story by Michael Ong

Photos by Michael Ong

Portugal has been a travel hot spot in recent years, and I can see why after visiting not twice, but three times now. Yet I find myself yearning to return whenever I look back at my photos and videos, each image pulling me back to those salt-tinged memories. While most tourists flock to the more popular destinations like Lisbon, Porto, and the Algarve, there's a little gem we discovered a tiny surf town with a completely different rhythm than the hand-painted azulejos, elaborate Manueline architecture, and iconic yellow "Remodelado" trams that most people envision when they think of Portugal.

Photos by Michael Ong

Photo by Subashini Nadarajah

Santa Cruz

During one of our trips to Lisbon, we saved the final two days of our annual Satsang retreat for a much more relaxing destination, trading city bustle for coastal calm. About an hour outside of Lisbon, Santa Cruz unfolds as a beautiful, low-key surf town where the ocean sets the pace. Noah Surf House offered a stark contrast to our stay in historic Alfama, this uber-modern, eco-conscious retreat practically pulses with surf culture.

Photos by Subashini Nadarajah

Each little bungalow resembles floating cubes, cantilevered on the steep coastal slope with giant floor-to-ceiling windows along the entire west side, framing endless Atlantic views. We kept our 8-foot sliding window open the entire time, letting the thunderous rhythm of waves and salt-kissed air fill our space.

The environmental consciousness feels even more apparent in this part of the country. Bicycles are available for exploring town, and the property provides only reusable water bottles, small touches that feel meaningful when you're living so close to the elements. Here, where strong winds and crashing waves create a constant natural soundtrack, you become deeply aware of nature's presence.

Photos by Michael Ong

Photo by Subashini Nadarajah

We weren't here to catch waves like the fearless local surfers braving the cold Atlantic waters. We came simply to soak in the unhurried, carefree vibe, watching time slow to the rhythm of the tides while witnessing spectacular, unobstructed sunsets each evening. Dinners meant outdoor seafood barbecues, enjoying the ocean's bounty as stars began to emerge in the darkening sky.

Photo by Michael Ong

The Color Palette of Our Memory

You know a place is truly magical when everything fits together harmoniously, the surroundings, the architecture, the flavors. As a creative person, I love those happy accidents when visual elements echo each other, usually inspired by nature's hand. Sometimes we don't consciously see this harmony while we're there; instead, we feel it. If we're lucky, it reveals itself later when we're curating our trip photos, standing back to let them tell a deeper story.

Photo by Michael Ong

There are beautiful parallels between the landscape and architecture, the prominent colors of sky and sand naturally echoing the thoughtful color choices in the man-made surroundings. Now I understand that yearning I feel when looking back at these images. Santa Cruz didn't just give us beautiful photos, it offered a masterclass in slowing down, in finding magic in simplicity, and in remembering that our most meaningful journeys often happen when we venture beyond the obvious path.

JOURNEY NOTES:

1. Getting There: Santa Cruz is about an hour’s drive from Lisbon. Use a fixed-price private transfer or Uber for convenience, expect to pay between €56 and €75 depending on vehicle type.

   
   

2. Stay: Noah Surf House – modern, eco-conscious bungalows with panoramic Atlantic views.

   
   

3. Best Time to Visit: Late spring to early autumn for warm weather and longer daylight hours. Winter brings dramatic waves and fewer crowds.

   
   

4. Don’t Miss: Sunset from your balcony, fresh seafood barbecue, a walk along Praia de Santa Cruz’s golden sands.

   
   

5. Vibe: Unhurried, barefoot, and entirely in tune with the tides.

Photos by Michael Ong